I started with deep conditioning with Mielle Organics Babassu Oil and Mint Deep Conditioner.  This deep conditioner has been a life saver and has reached holy grail status because I lose less hair on wash day, and my hair is noticeably thicker and stronger.  

My hair didn't really need a wash, so I just rinsed out the deep conditioner while detangling my hair.  Next, because I wash my hair in four sections, that is how I applied my products.  I used Oyin Hair Dew as my leave-in, followed by Camille Rose Cocoa Nibs and Honey Ultimate Growth Serum, then DevaCurl Supercream.  To style, I raked gobs of As I Am Curling Jelly through a section, then very loosely twisted and put a white curling rod on it.  Then I moved on to the next section.  My hair is low porosity and takes literally days to dry, so I wasn't worried about this turning into a twistout.  The only reason I twisted is because the As I Am Curling Jelly gives me no hold, and I watched this woman on YouTube twist her hair temporarily to get length and clumping.

After about an hour in the twists, I took them out to let my curls dry.   My hair is the most defined it has been in awhile!!  (I've been struggling with lots of frizz.)  This is particularly impressive given the gel I used.  I still have super shrinkage because As I Am Curling Jelly has no weight, but I'm ok with that.  Shrinkage makes it look like my low-medium density hair has more volume.

Hey, beautiful people!  With Michigan winter coming soon, I am moving back into more protective
styling, which means more shed hairs get trapped close to my roots and I get more tangling. I have to be careful when detangling because, even though my hair is high density, it is also very fine in most areas.   Thus, typically, I just finger detangle 1-2 times per week.  Every few months, however, I do a more thorough detangling session.

For those more thorough sessions, here are my favorite tools:

1. A good rinse out or leave-in conditioner with a lot of slip.  I like Herbal Essence Long Term Relationship Conditioner; Herbal Essence Totally Twisted Conditioner; Silk Dreams Wheat Germ Butter Conditioner; and Curl Junkie Curl Assurance Smoothing Conditioner.  I have also used Oyin Hair Dew with my oil mix to get the job done.


2. A wide tooth comb.  After finger detangling and putting my hair in sections, I next use the wide tooth comb to get out the more easier tangles.  I have two Hercules Sagemann Magic Star Rake Combs that I really like because they are seamless.  However, sometimes I just use one of my $4 Diane or Annie Jumbo Rake Combs.  They are not seamless, but I have never had a problem with them.


3. Paddle Brush.  After going through a section with a wide tooth comb, I go in with my Conair Paddle Brush to get out the remaining tangles and some of the loose shed hairs that I missed with finger detangling and my wide tooth comb.  I have the old school square wooden handle one.  I am not sure that they make still make it because I no longer see it in stores, but the plastic and "velvet touch" handle ones are pretty much the same.  The only downside about my Conair is that it is big, which makes it hard to get close to my roots.  I may try the Wet Brush as it appears a bit smaller.


4. Tangle Teaser Or Similar Brush.  This is my final step before braiding up the detangled section.  I don't have a Tangle Teaser.  I have a Goody Tangle Fix, which looks the same to me; is cheaper; and works great.  This is good for getting any knots out of my ends, and for getting final shed hairs out of the length of my hair.  I am careful with this brush, however, because I have had heard of other ladies getting mid-shaft splits.

1.  Clear Eco Styler Gel ($6 for 16 oz)  – This performs very similar to the pink Eco Styler gel that I previously reviewed.  As with the pink, I have to tie a scarf on my head because the gel takes some time to dry.  I also have to apply a lot of this product to get a good hold, but it will last all day and maybe even a second day.  The only downside to applying a lot is that it can make my hair hard.


2. Gorilla Earwax Wet Look ($9 for 3.52 oz) – This is made by the same company that makes Gorilla Snot Gel, but it is better.  I really like this, except for the cologne-type smell.  I felt like it made me smell a little like a man, though my hubby said he couldn’t smell anything.  It gives me all day hold (maybe even two days), but I have to be careful not to use too much or it might dry yellow.  Also, like EcoStyler, this dries a little hard.  In other words, a little goes a very long way. 


3. Murray’s Edgewax ($6 for 4 oz) (pictured on left) – This product reminds me of old school hair grease, but it has hold!  This and the extreme hold version perform very similar and look similar.  However, this one is easy to spread, especially if I apply it to slightly damp hair.  The first time I tried this, it lasted for less time than the extreme hold version.  However, the second time I used it, I used more and it lasted for about the same amount of time (almost a full day); so, the trick is figuring out how much to use.  I do like that it has no scent, and the results are instantaneous.  It also left my hair feeling soft.


4. Murray’s Edgewax Extreme Hold ($7 for 4 oz) (pictured on right) – Almost everything I said for the regular version is true for this one, but it is difficult to spread.  It is a very thick wax.  I had to rub it in my hands to soften it and thin it out before I could apply it to my hair; and, even then, sometimes I ended up with chunks of wax in my hair.  I wish there was a middle consistency that was a little heavier than the regular version and a little lighter than this one.


5. Hicks Transformations Edges ($12 for 4 oz) – This reminded me a lot of the Cream of Nature Perfect Edges.  It instantaneously slicked my edges down, but it didn’t last long at all.  Also, it is fairly pricey.  At the only beauty supply store near me that carries it, they keep it behind the counter.


6. Lotta Body Control Me Edge Gel ($4 for 2.25 oz) - This reminded me a lot of the Cream of Nature Perfect Edges.  It instantaneously slicked my edges down, but it didn’t last long and it left white residue in my hair.


7. Design Essentials Honey & Shea Edge Tamer ($12 for 2.3 oz) – My hair laughed at this one.  It did not slick my edges at all, and it was pricey.

Hey, beautiful people!  With Michigan winter fully in gear, I put my wash n' go challenge on hold and put my hair into hiding, typically in braids.  I tried twists, and they just don't give my hair the same definition.  Also, I have to be careful because my is also fine, so it break easily with too much tension.


Right now, my regimen is to:
1.  Deep condition my hair overnight
2.  Shampoo as needed
3.  Detangle with rinse-out conditioner
4.  Add leave-in conditioner, light oil and styling cream
5.  Braid my hair



During the week, I typically keep my hair in two crown braids, with the last inch of hair at the nape of my neck cornrowed in a separate braid.  I intend to test out a number of the twist creams in my hair to determine which ones leave my hair with the most moisture, sheen and definition.

• Low manipulation refers to styles that require minimum styling, and require little maintenance during the week.  Low maintenance styles tend to be "set it and forget it" styles.  This would include wash n gos, certain updos, and bunning.  Braid outs/twist outs are only low manipulation if you don't have to frequently re-braid/twist.


• Protective styling refers to styles that hide your hair, particularly your ends, to protect it from the elements.  This would include updos, bunning, braids, twists.  It would also include wigs.

For some people, especially those with fine hair, like me, low manipulation styles may be better than protective styles because frequent manipulation of the hair can lead to breakage.  On the other hand, for some, protective styles are better because their ends are easily damaged.

1. Pink Eco Styler Gel ($6 / 32 oz)- This is not marketed as an edge control, but it had the most long-lasting hold by far, and it it the cheapest.  I just have to use ALOT.  Also, I have to tie down my edges after I apply it, to let it dry.  Because it takes my hair awhile to dry, even if I apply the gel on dry hair, the results are not instantaneous.


2. Cream of Nature Perfect Edges ($4.50 / 2.25) - This is my favorite "edge control".  It gave me both high shine and hold.  It also spreads easily, and it actually smells a little like argan oil.  It just didn't give me all day hold. As the day went on, my edges started to puff up.  For people avoiding parabens, do not purchase this one. It has 2 - methylparaben and ethylparaben. 


3. Carol's Daughter Black Vanilla Edge Control Smoother ($8 / 2 oz) - This is my second favorite "edge control" product.  It performed very similar to the Cream of Nature, including the fact that it also gave me great shine.  It also smells deliciously like vanilla. However, like the Cream of Nature, it also didn't give me long lasting hold. Unlike Cream of Nature, it does not have any parabens. I really like the ingredients in this product.


4. Oyin Burnt Sugar Pomade ($14 / 4 oz) - I use this as a second day product after using gel on the first day.  I typical spritz my hair with a little water, then smooth on the pomade and tie down my hair with a scarf. After about 30 minutes, my hair usually good to go with a nice sheen and it is soft.  Do not expect this to last longer than a couple hours though.  The pomade has amazing ingredients.  I prefer the Burnt Sugar Pomade to the Sugar Berries Pomade based on smell alone. They perform and cost the same. The Burnt Sugar smells like cookies.  The sugar berries smells like plants to me.  This is on the higher side of price per ounce, but a little goes  along way.  I've had the same jar for at least a year.


5. Shea Moisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Strengthen, Grow & Restore ($10 / 4 oz) - While the jar says that it smooths, this is more of a treatment, than an edge control.  The protein seems to strengthen my edges, and this product keeps my hair soft with a nice sheen.  When I'm stressed, my temples thin, so this is a keeper, just not as an edge control.  The only thing I don't like about this is that it seems to leave some residue on my hair after a few days of use.


6. Gorilla Snot Gel (Punk) ($6.59 / 11.9 oz) - Someone suggested this gel because it is kind of like glue.  It did work on my edges to a certain extent, but it worked pretty much like Eco Styler Gel and it didn't last as long, even though I put a ton on. 


7. Curls Control Paste ($8 / 4 oz) - I was actually surprised that this did not work for me. It was my favorite product while I was transitioning because it smoothed my edges.  However, when I tried it as part of this experiment, while it smoothed my edges, the smooth edges did not last long.  It also left a white residue.  I tried it on both "dirty" hair and freshly washed hair.  It gave me the same white residue each time.


8. ORS Olive Oil Edge Control ($5 / 2.25 oz) - This simply did not spread easily on my hair, so it was not effective.


9. Smooth 'N Shine Edge Smoothing Pomade ($2.59 / 2 oz) - This performs similarly to the ORS Edge Control. 


10. Got2B Glued Spiking Glue ($6.50 / 6 oz) - I only tried this because someone suggested it.  It did not give me hold, but it did leave a sticky film on my hair.  No bueno.

As promised, here is part 2 of my essential tools list:

1. Wide Tooth Comb - This is optional.  Some women use one, and some rely solely on their fingers.  I use my fingers to detangle regularly.  But, I find that, with my curl pattern, I have to do an intensive detangling periodically with a wide tooth comb.  I have two Hercules Sageman Magic Star Rake combs, but I've found that I actually prefer my cheap jumbo rake combs made by Annie and Diane these days.

2. Soft Boar Bristle Brush - Again, this is an optional tool because not everyone uses one.  You also have to be careful if you have fine strands like me.  I only use my boar bristle brush if I want a sleek bun or puff.  Also, my boar bristle brush has hairs that are almost as soft as a baby brush.

3. Headbands - I have a ton of these.  I use thick, decorative ones when I don’t want to brush my edges but I still want a neater look.  I use thin, stretched out ones to do my buns and puffs.  My hair is too thick to gather it all up with a ponytail holder (I’ve broken a lot of them trying and I get headaches from them).

4. Ponytail Holders - I use these mainly for sectioning my hair to deep condition and wash it.  I also sometimes use a couple of these, once my hair is already in a bun, to catch any remaining strands or flyaways.  I buy these in bulk because my hair snaps them easily.  Some people use the stretchy lace kind, but I’m a bigger fan of the traditional Goody or Scunci ones, which are cheap and effective.  Plus, my hair is too big for the tiny lace ones.  Just don’t buy the ones with metal clamps because these can snag your hair.

5. Hairpins - These should be self-explanatory.  I have not met a natural yet, who does not have a stash of hair pins.  This is another cheap tool that I usually buy in bulk, but I also have travel packs.

6. Hair Clamps - Now that my hair is longer, I don’t use these as often as I used to, but alligator clips and roller clamps are still great for sectioning off the hair to flat twist or braid.  I also use duckbill clips to set my part for a wash n’ go.

Hey, beautiful people!  After I posted my top 5 things that I learned last week, I thought of five more:

Ingredients:   Aqua (enriched with Aloe Vera), Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol, Witch Hazel Distillate, Capryl Isostearate, Glycerin, Rice Bran Oil, Polysorbate 20, Behenoyl PG-Trimonium Chloride, Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetyl Alcohol (and) Butylene Glycol, Vanilla planifolia, Preservative [Phenoxyethanol and Caprylyl Glycol and Sorbic Acid], Scent, Rosemary Leaf Extract, Hydrolyzed Corn Protein (and) Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (and) Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Silk Powder.

Promise:  A detangling, luxurious conditioner with rice bran oil and rosemary.  Leaves every strand silky smooth.  No silicones!

Scent:  Snickerdoodle cookies with strong hint of cinnamon

Consistency:  Buttercream frosting or softened butter.  In the jar, it looks like it will be heavy, but it spreads fairly thin in a good way.

Love it, Like it or Leave It:  Love It!  I would buy it more often, but it is hard for me to get it anywhere but through Qhemet's website

Hey, HHJs!! One of the biggest struggles for me has been figuring out new styles for my hair.  I've been watching a lot of YouTube videos and reading a lot of blogs.  But I finally decided to take it a step further.  I attended a Natural Hairstyling class at Everette's Natural Beauty School with an area Meetup group for naturals.  In the class, I learned how to perfect my technique for doing twists and I learned how to do comb twists, among other things.  I even got a certificate at the end.  It was a great experience!


If you too are looking for ideas on how to style your hair and Youtube isn't enough, look to see if there is a natural hair beauty school in your area that holds classes.  In the alternative, maybe there is someone on Craiglist willing to teach you techniques for a small fee.


Even after attending the class, I'm always on the hunt for new style inspiration.  What new styles are you trying on your natural hair journey?

HAPPY STYLING!

1. First I did an overnight deep conditioning treatment with moisturizing and protein deep conditioner.  I mixed Darcy’s Botanicals Deep Conditioning Mask, Curl Junkie Repair Me!, honey, grapeseed oil, and avocado oil.  My hair felt wonderful and strong when I rinsed it out.

2. I cleansed my hair with co-wash (She Scent It Blueberry Co-wash), and then detangled with another moisturizing protein conditioner (Hairveda Acai Berry Phyto Conditioner).

3. Then, I applied more protein as a leave-in (Aphogee Keratin & Green Tea Restructurizer) and heat protectant (Carol’s Daughter Chocolat Blow Drying Cream and Grapeseed Oil).

4. I airdried for several hours so that my hair was not soaking wet, then blowdried on the medium setting using a modified version of the tension method.  I first tried to use a comb attachment, but it was rough on my ends, so I immediately stopped.

5. Finally, I flat ironed at 300 degrees with more heat protectant (IC Fantasia Heat Protectant spray in the pink bottle).  Then I banded my flat ironed hair.

1. Moisturize and your hair before applying any heat.  This may seem counterintuitive because water reverts straightened hair, but it is important to keep the hair moisturized because using heat will evaporate water from your cuticle.  When too much moisture evaporates from the hair or if the moisture evaporates too quickly, it can cause the hair to become brittle and crack.  Moisture also helps absorb and dissipate heat through the hair.  Thus, a good moisturizing conditioner is important.

2. Strengthen your hair before applying heat.  Use protein to reinforce your hair strands.  Heat damage comes from a loss of structural integrity to the hair strand, which is made up of protein. 

3. Make sure your hair is thoroughly clean before applying heat.  You would not want to bake in any dirt that is sitting on your hair.  Also, clean hair heats more slowly than dirty hair.

4. Buy Reputable Heat Tools.  It is good to be frugal, but don’t be so cheap that you burn all of your hair off in the process.  Your flat iron should have a temperature gauge on it so that you can adjust it to the proper setting.  Your blow dryer should have multiple settings, including low and cool.

5. Use heat tools on the lowest setting possible.  If your hair is unhealthy you should not be using heat; but, even if it is healthy, you have to be careful.  Healthy hair normally burns at about 450 degrees, but damage and scorching can occur at lower temperatures.  This risk is increased if you have fine strands.  JC of The Natural Haven has an interesting article on what happens to the hair at various temperatures.  Based on her article, the hair's structure begins to change at 320-347 degrees, well before burning.

6. Minimize the amount of heat used.  If possible, do not use a blow dryer and a flat iron.  Rather, airdry first, then use a flat iron.  Blow dryers “flash dry” the hair, which can make the hair dry, brittle and more prone to cracking.  Doubling up on heat also increases the risk of heat damage.  Also, limit the amount of passes that you do with the flat iron and try not to keep the flat iron on your hair for more than 3-4 seconds.  I’m sure you’ve seen the Youtube video of the girl, who did not know this lesson (if not, here it is).

7. Use heat protectant.  Christina of The Mane Objective has an article with a good list of heat protectant ingredients.  Beauty Brains also talks about what to look for in a heat protectant for blow drying vs. a heat protectant for flat ironing. For blow drying, look for glycerin and propylene glycol because they slow water evaporation, and hydrolyzed wheat protein polysiloxane copolymer (a protein-silicone hybrid) because it decreases the risk of cracking.  For flat ironing, look for conditioners that can penetrate the hair strand, like cetrimonium chloride.


8. Take Your Time.  Thoroughly detangle beforehand, which will make straightening easier and it will ensure that you do not rip your strands if using a comb attachment.  Make sure your hair is dry before using the flat iron so that you do not boil your strands from the inside.  

What tips do you have for healthy heat styling and avoiding heat damage?

Hey, fellow HHJs!  Today I decided to try a Curlformer experiment and I think it was a success for a number of reasons.  First, I think I now know what product to use for my Curlformer set.  Two, I think I inadvertently figured out what to use for mini twists.

Ever since I decided to transition, I've tried to use more "natural" products, which meant I also began the hunt for a new setting lotion.  I used to use Motions Foaming Wrap Lotion or KeraCare Foam Wrap Set Lotion, but I wanted to see if I could find something else.  I tried Jane Carter Wrap and Roll, but it did not work for me.  I tried gel and that did not work either.  Then, since I'm now on a no-buy, I decided to look around the hair forum for suggestions of what else I could use from my product stash.  That is when I learned that some women use nothing, and a fellow HHJ on the forum suggested that I try curling cream.

Since it is winter, I used Oyin Hair Dew all over my hair because it is my staple winter leave-in.  Then, I added Jane Carter Curl Defining Cream to the left side only.  I really like the Oyin-only side.  It dried soft, but still straight.  It also dried faster than the Jane Carter side.  It probably has no real hold, but I was only using the Curlformers today to stretch my hair .

In fairness to the Jane Carter side, not all of the hair on that side dried before I took the Curlformers out, but some did so I could still do a comparison.  Those that did were also soft and had some sheen, but they were also slightly greasy.  Those that didn't dry were damp to almost soaking wet.  It was almost as if the Jane Carter kept them from drying.  On the upside, I twisted the wet ones and learned that Jane Carter makes a nice styler for medium-sized twists.

I'll probably try the Jane Carter again at some point, when I'm willing to sit under a hooded dryer or sleep in my Curlformers, to see if I can use it for hold when I want a long-lasting set.  I may even go back to a setting lotion with man-made chemicals.  Who knows.  In the meantime, Oyin Hair Dew will get the job done.

What do you use for Curlformer sets?

HAPPY SETTING!!