Hey fellow HHJs! I
recently finished up all of the shampoo that I have in my stash, but I still
have a number of cleansing conditioners.
Since I’m on a no buy challenge,
my dilemma has been whether to borrow some of my hubby’s stripping shampoo or
just stick to these cleansing conditioners.
My concern with cleansing conditioner has always been whether it would
be cleansing enough. I have always loved
the As I Am Coconut Co-wash, which feels like it cleanses. I also tried the Ouidad Curl Co-wash, which
was a little too stripping for my hair.
However, I've heard rumors that some of the other co-washes are
basically the same as regular conditioner.
So, I decided to do a little research to figure out what makes a
cleansing conditioner different from a regular, rinse out conditioner. To avoid making the post on my research too
long, I’m going to break it out into two parts.
This part will talk foundation for what makes a great cleanser. The second part will talk about specific
cleansing ingredients to look for.
First off, let’s start with two basic concepts. The purpose of a shampoo is to cleanse, which
includes binding to dirt and oil to remove it.
The purpose of a rinse out conditioner is to balance ph levels and coat
the hair cuticles to make it easier to detangle the hair. In other words, while shampoo binds to oil,
conditioner binds to hair. I assume that
the goal of an effective co-wash / cleansing conditioner is be a hybrid of the
two. With that in mind, I’m not as
concerned with the conditioning portion of a cleansing conditioner, as I am
about the cleansing portion.
In terms of cleansers, the active ingredient for removing
dirt and oil from the hair is a surfactant.
Surfactants are great for two reasons.
First, they are great because they have two parts, one part that is water
loving (hydrophilic) and one part that loves fat (lipophilic) and fears water (hydrophobic). The fat-loving part is what binds to oil to
remove it. If you really want to know
more about the structure of surfactants, the Natural Haven has two really great
articles on this (here and here),
so I’m not going to get more complex than that.
The important thing to know, for purposes of finding a proper cleanser,
is that surfactants bind to oil and carry it away.
The second reason that surfactants are great is that many of
them have a negative charge, which means that hair strands repel them,
rather than holding on to them, because hair also has a slightly negative
charge. Remember that old saying that
opposites attract? It applies to hair
too.
Thus, there are three types of surfactants usually used in
cleansers: anionic surfactants (negative
charge), zwitterionic / amphoteric surfactants (hybrid charge), and nonionic
surfactants (no charge). The stronger
the negative charge, the better for cleansing hair. Thus, anionic surfactants are the strongest
cleansers, followed by zwitterionic, and then nonionic. Positively charged (cationic) surfactants are
almost never used as cleansers because they bind to the hair, rather than being
repelled. Have you guessed yet what kind
of surfactant the conditioning agent BTMS contains?
HAPPY CLEANSING!!
No comments :
Post a Comment
Thank you for your comment. I love hearing from my readers!