1. First I did an overnight deep conditioning treatment with moisturizing and protein deep conditioner.  I mixed Darcy’s Botanicals Deep Conditioning Mask, Curl Junkie Repair Me!, honey, grapeseed oil, and avocado oil.  My hair felt wonderful and strong when I rinsed it out.

2. I cleansed my hair with co-wash (She Scent It Blueberry Co-wash), and then detangled with another moisturizing protein conditioner (Hairveda Acai Berry Phyto Conditioner).

3. Then, I applied more protein as a leave-in (Aphogee Keratin & Green Tea Restructurizer) and heat protectant (Carol’s Daughter Chocolat Blow Drying Cream and Grapeseed Oil).

4. I airdried for several hours so that my hair was not soaking wet, then blowdried on the medium setting using a modified version of the tension method.  I first tried to use a comb attachment, but it was rough on my ends, so I immediately stopped.

5. Finally, I flat ironed at 300 degrees with more heat protectant (IC Fantasia Heat Protectant spray in the pink bottle).  Then I banded my flat ironed hair.

1. Moisturize and your hair before applying any heat.  This may seem counterintuitive because water reverts straightened hair, but it is important to keep the hair moisturized because using heat will evaporate water from your cuticle.  When too much moisture evaporates from the hair or if the moisture evaporates too quickly, it can cause the hair to become brittle and crack.  Moisture also helps absorb and dissipate heat through the hair.  Thus, a good moisturizing conditioner is important.

2. Strengthen your hair before applying heat.  Use protein to reinforce your hair strands.  Heat damage comes from a loss of structural integrity to the hair strand, which is made up of protein. 

3. Make sure your hair is thoroughly clean before applying heat.  You would not want to bake in any dirt that is sitting on your hair.  Also, clean hair heats more slowly than dirty hair.

4. Buy Reputable Heat Tools.  It is good to be frugal, but don’t be so cheap that you burn all of your hair off in the process.  Your flat iron should have a temperature gauge on it so that you can adjust it to the proper setting.  Your blow dryer should have multiple settings, including low and cool.

5. Use heat tools on the lowest setting possible.  If your hair is unhealthy you should not be using heat; but, even if it is healthy, you have to be careful.  Healthy hair normally burns at about 450 degrees, but damage and scorching can occur at lower temperatures.  This risk is increased if you have fine strands.  JC of The Natural Haven has an interesting article on what happens to the hair at various temperatures.  Based on her article, the hair's structure begins to change at 320-347 degrees, well before burning.

6. Minimize the amount of heat used.  If possible, do not use a blow dryer and a flat iron.  Rather, airdry first, then use a flat iron.  Blow dryers “flash dry” the hair, which can make the hair dry, brittle and more prone to cracking.  Doubling up on heat also increases the risk of heat damage.  Also, limit the amount of passes that you do with the flat iron and try not to keep the flat iron on your hair for more than 3-4 seconds.  I’m sure you’ve seen the Youtube video of the girl, who did not know this lesson (if not, here it is).

7. Use heat protectant.  Christina of The Mane Objective has an article with a good list of heat protectant ingredients.  Beauty Brains also talks about what to look for in a heat protectant for blow drying vs. a heat protectant for flat ironing. For blow drying, look for glycerin and propylene glycol because they slow water evaporation, and hydrolyzed wheat protein polysiloxane copolymer (a protein-silicone hybrid) because it decreases the risk of cracking.  For flat ironing, look for conditioners that can penetrate the hair strand, like cetrimonium chloride.


8. Take Your Time.  Thoroughly detangle beforehand, which will make straightening easier and it will ensure that you do not rip your strands if using a comb attachment.  Make sure your hair is dry before using the flat iron so that you do not boil your strands from the inside.  

What tips do you have for healthy heat styling and avoiding heat damage?

Hey, HHJs!  I'm not sure if people normally designate hair tools as a holy grail items, but I don't care.  My Hercules Sagemann magic star rake combs are now two of mine.  As I previously posted, I bought these lovely combs during my Black Friday buying frenzy.  I had an eye on them for awhile because I kept hearing great things about them, however, I was skeptical.  I have had many a wide tooth comb in my years, and all of them snagged my hair, even if just minimally, because some of my strands are fine.  I didn't see a point to buying an even more expensive comb that would probably do the same.    But, my product junkie addiction got the best of me when the rake comb set went on sale this year, and I'm glad I did.


The rumors are true, people!  These combs are amazing.  They literally glide through my hair.  I have yet to have a strand snag.  Based on the website, they are handmade from 100% vulcanized rubber.  This makes them sturdy, unlike some cheaper combs that I've had that bend while going through my hair.  Additionally, the magic star rake combs are free of seams and burrs, which are usually two culprits of hair snagging.  Also, the teeth are a nice width apart, which is great for going through my kinky-curly strands.

The only thing I did not like about these combs was the price.  I paid $29.95 plus shipping for the set, which is normally $33.  If I had to pick one of the two, I like the mini rake better because of its size.  It is easier to pack for travelling and it is easier to maneuver when combing my ends.  The mini rake is normally $16.95.  I prefer the jumbo rake for combing the length of my hair, however, simply because it is bigger.  It is normally $24.95.  Both the individual combs and the set are actually still on sale as of this post.

So tell me, HHJs.  Have you tried the magic star rake combs?  Do you like them?  If not, what do you use?

HAPPY COMBING!!!

Hey, fellow HHJs!  Today I decided to try a Curlformer experiment and I think it was a success for a number of reasons.  First, I think I now know what product to use for my Curlformer set.  Two, I think I inadvertently figured out what to use for mini twists.

Ever since I decided to transition, I've tried to use more "natural" products, which meant I also began the hunt for a new setting lotion.  I used to use Motions Foaming Wrap Lotion or KeraCare Foam Wrap Set Lotion, but I wanted to see if I could find something else.  I tried Jane Carter Wrap and Roll, but it did not work for me.  I tried gel and that did not work either.  Then, since I'm now on a no-buy, I decided to look around the hair forum for suggestions of what else I could use from my product stash.  That is when I learned that some women use nothing, and a fellow HHJ on the forum suggested that I try curling cream.

Since it is winter, I used Oyin Hair Dew all over my hair because it is my staple winter leave-in.  Then, I added Jane Carter Curl Defining Cream to the left side only.  I really like the Oyin-only side.  It dried soft, but still straight.  It also dried faster than the Jane Carter side.  It probably has no real hold, but I was only using the Curlformers today to stretch my hair .

In fairness to the Jane Carter side, not all of the hair on that side dried before I took the Curlformers out, but some did so I could still do a comparison.  Those that did were also soft and had some sheen, but they were also slightly greasy.  Those that didn't dry were damp to almost soaking wet.  It was almost as if the Jane Carter kept them from drying.  On the upside, I twisted the wet ones and learned that Jane Carter makes a nice styler for medium-sized twists.

I'll probably try the Jane Carter again at some point, when I'm willing to sit under a hooded dryer or sleep in my Curlformers, to see if I can use it for hold when I want a long-lasting set.  I may even go back to a setting lotion with man-made chemicals.  Who knows.  In the meantime, Oyin Hair Dew will get the job done.

What do you use for Curlformer sets?

HAPPY SETTING!!

HAPPY OILING!!!

Hey, HHJs!  This morning I was thinking about my hair and realized that I am hair obsessed.  Here are five clues that led me to this conclusion:

1. I have had hour long conversations with strangers about hair


2. My two year old told someone "no dimethicone in this house"


3. I have made my husband feel both sides of my hair to see which product works best (see my post on the battle of the Pura Body Moisturizers).  In the old days, he would have protested to having any part in the experiment, but he has since learned to give in.


4. I frequently check my favorite hair forum before I go to bed and when I wake up.


5. I have a detailed inventory of my hair products and a hair journal.

Hey, fellow HHJs!  I hope that you had a wonderful holiday!  I'm posting this as both a cautionary tale, and to prevent myself from doing anymore damage.  As you all know, I'm a PJ.  Black Friday is like Christmas for my hair, but not for my wallet.  Here is what I purchased this season:


Hotcombs - $33.86
($29.95 + $3.91 shipping)

Currently, if I use castor oil at all, I use Tropic Isle Living Jamaican Black Castor Oil (JBCO) because I heard JBCO is good for the hair and scalp, and because Tropic Isle is one of the few brands that I have found to be pure JBCO without any cheap fillers.  I also love that purchasing Tropic Isle's castor oil contributes to the Jamaican economy, which is where my dad is from.  However, I recently started thinking about whether I need to go through the added expense of getting JBCO or if I can just use drugstore castor oil for the same benefits.  My sister uses drugstore castor oil and loves it.

Castor oil is a vegetable oil obtained from the castor seed (aka castor bean).  You will sometimes see it referred to in an ingredients list as "Ricinus communis".   There are five types of castor oil that I've found in my research:

1. Extra Virgin Cold-Pressed - The fresh castor seeds are pressed.  This castor oil is usually pale yellow to clear, depending on whether it was filtered to lower the iodine content.  Here is a Youtube video of castor beans being cold pressed - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sQIaPRCgU-E#t=12.
2. Refined - The fresh castor seeds are still pressed, but then they go through a refinement process.
3. Jamaican Black Castor Oil (JBCO) - The castor seed is roasted, beaten with a mortar, boiled and then pressed.  That castor oil is usually brown to black, depending on the level of ash in the oil.
4. Haitian Black Castor Oil (HBCO) - I did not find a ton of information on this type, but it appears to be very similar to JBCO.
5. Chemically Extracted - In addition to all of the pressed versions, some companies use chemical solvents to extract the castor oil because it is a faster process than the press.

I have heard the myth that JBCO is black because it is unrefined and has gone through less processing than cold pressed castor oil, but that is not true unless you are comparing JBCO to refined castor oil.  The true difference between JBCO and cold-pressed castor oil is the ash content in JBCO, which comes from the roasting of the castor beans.  The reason why JBCO is or should be considered to be better is the benefits of the ash content.  The ash contains minerals, like magnesium, manganese and silica.  Thus, it is believed that the higher the ash content, the better the benefits.

What is your castor oil preference?

HAPPY OILING!!

HAPPY DISCOVERING!!!

I am doing the happy dance because I just found out that I was nominated for a Liebster Award by one of my favorite fellow PJs, Mia a/k/a EnExitStageLeft (http://powertothepj.blogspot.com).

I don't know about you ladies, but I am excited about Black Friday sales.  I've subscribed to my favorite vendors so that I can get emails about their sales.  I've also subscribed to forum threads for BF codes.  Here are two of my favorites on LHCF:

• Black Friday Sales/Deals/Codes
• What's On Sale This Month

If you want an idea of some of the Black Friday sales from last year, Confessions of a Blog Vixen (a/k/a westNDNbeauty) has a great post on it. I've also made my wishlist, though I'm not sure I will buy everything on it, especially the deep conditioners:

• Magic Star Jumbo Rake Comb
• Curl Junkie Curl Assurance Smoothing Lotion
• Purabody Murumuru Moisture Milk
• Camille Rose Naturals Aloe Whipped Butter Gel
• Hairveda Sitrinillah Deep Conditioner
• My Honey Child Honey Hair Mask
• My Honey Child Olive You Deep Conditioner
• Jessicurl Deep Conditioning Treatment

What are you doing in preparation for Black Friday?  What is on your wishlist?

HAPPY SHOPPING!!

The most important two things to remember for low porosity hair are that:  (1) it is really to get water or anything else into the strands because the cuticles are closed tightly; and (2) time and indirect heat are your greatest friends in getting things into the hair strand.  Keeping those two things in mind, here are just a few observations and techniques I have started to pick up on my low porosity journey:

• I've realized that my low porosity is probably the reason that it took forever for my relaxer to process, and why my hair usually ended up overprocessed or underprocessed.
• Even with a silicone-free regimen, I still have to shampoo because I'm prone to build-up.  Even natural products tend to sit on my hair strands.  
• I need to give conditioner a lot of time and some heat to work.  I usually deep condition overnight or with a heat cap for a minimum of 20 minutes to give my hair time to absorb the conditioner.  Steam would also work.
• Milky and light cream products work best.  I sometimes have to thin out products with grapeseed oil, so I always have some around.  Pure shea butter is too thick.
• I cannot run out the door immediately after putting leave-in on my hair because the leave-in sometimes takes awhile to absorb.  I sometimes see white specks for the first 20-30 minutes.  
• It takes forever for my hair to dry.  I've had my hair take up to 24 hours to airdry.

conditioner to smell like.